Just when the Australian wine industry was breathing a sigh of relief at regaining access to China, the tables have turned.

Slow-braised beef short ribs glazed in a glossy sauce of strawberry jam, black vinegar, and Shaoxing wine make a deeply savory-sweet dish that bridges Chinese pantry staples with classic comfort.

To understand the true geography of the American Southwest, don’t just look at a standard cartographical map. Look at a casing — specifically, the translucent skin of a sausage that, until recently, ...